Saturday, late March, Athens O

Chubu University presented a gift of 175 cherry trees in 1979 to honor the years of Ohio University. In 2004 they gave an additional 25.

They were in bloom and people came to see, and some Japanese picnicked as in the old country.

Above the opposite bank is the former Lunatic Asylum.

Banner promoting talk therapy, strung up over Court Street.

pedestrians on Court & Union

The only drop box allowed in each county.  This is outside the court house on Court Street.

on tiny East State steps from Court Street

Jefferson Hall game room

Blonde squirrel on College Green

Blonde girl outside College Green

on the edge of Appalachia

Millfield Coal Mine Disaster

Important details are on the sign. Sunday Creek Coal Company Poston Mine #6  was considered the safest mine in the Hocking Valley. Two hundred and fifty some miners were working that day. The mine was known to be gassy. An electrical line arced, and the explosion came. Nearly all those died were choked by a non-explosive gas, carbon monoxide. Most of the men who escaped, climbed ventilation shafts. The nineteen that were found alive, only two were conscious. That group had walled themselves off from the gas by an ersatz wall they made from mud, burlap, scrap wood. This was Ohio's deadliest mining incident. The mine continued until 1945. Not until the 1970s was there some interest in marking the lives, and the event. 

 

I heard a professor of geography say, that the mid-West began in Lancaster and ended in Denver. East Millfield is in Athens County, which is wholly in Appalachia; and as Joe Burrow realised growing up, the area has much poverty. Lancaster is midway between the state capital and Athens. If one were to drive south on 33, you will see the flat ground approaching a rising wall of trees. Those hills of trees commence to Appalachia. While the Middle West is agricultural land of fecundity, Appalachia is one of rock. There is clay for pottery, pipes, and bricks. There is coal. Coal mining is dirty and deadly. When the coal has been tapped out, poverty remains. Ohio is not a coal mining state anymore.

Not very far from Millfield and Chauncey is Morristown Holiness Church. This was part of their campus. This is a Pentecostal sect.

basketball hoop on the porch of a rental unit 

The big engine of money generation in the county is the first college in the Middle West (the old North West), Ohio University. The county seat is there too in Athens' County, the biggest of the county's two towns, and in most decades the only town.  The government's definition of a town is 5,000 people. Each county has a county seat. In south east Ohio, several county seats are villages. One of the money makers in Athens is renting to college students. And, each year new bodies with fresh dollars in many old shabby abodes.

Black vultures high atop the old Athens Lunatic Asylum. 

The main building had a administrative core, with one wing for female residents, and one wing for male residents. There is a big stone on the building, 1868. The first patients came in 1874. Seeing the building's date alone, it would have been the great war to save the Union against insurrectionists, and secessionists. I have not seen the records, i would have guessed a number of war veterans might have been there. I did see a note, that many epileptics were sent there. Epilepsy was considered a form of lunacy. The name of the hospital was changed many times, and the patients were not all mad. Tuberculosis victims stayed there.

The place had many buildings. It was also a working farm, and some trade shops operated there. Physical labor was considered therapeutic, and it help sustain the enterprise. At one time, it was the largest employer in the county. It was like a village. In 1993 it was no longer a hospital, Ohio University absorbed it. 

 

Ohio University's oldest buildings are on what is called the College Green. In the 1950s & 60s the campus expanded with dormitories on the new East, West, and South Greens. The State Asylum was called the North Green unofficially by the students. Now the university is calling the class room buildings near College Green, "North Green".

In recent years, an interest has developed over the three cemeteries, WOUB-TV did at least one documentary. Also as a place where many lobotomies were performed, has made it a further interest to medical history.

Between the outdoor steps of a classroom under an arch, is this Jonah? 

James Edward Leonard Eldridge *1930, 2018 was a Michigan Wolverine footballer, who became a navy pilot. In 1958 was an art professor at Ohio University, and became Æthelred Eldridge. He was an avant-garde painter in black and white, and an eccentric enthused by William Blake. In 1967 he painted a very large mural on the arch connecting two parts of Seigfried Hall. The powers that were, were not amused. He painted it over in white, with two little hands trying to break through from behind the whitewash. For years it remained that way. I read that it was brought back in 2015. Eldridge lived in Millfield on a place he called Golgonooza (Blake's city of imagination).

Keith Wilde. Release. 2018. This is where Carpenter becomes Stimson. I took a snap on another day [click].

Ombrellino, there are seven of these in Ohio. This is the newest one. Saint Mary in Lancaster has been raised to a minor basilica. The dedication was on the Assumption of Mary, also a name of the parish, on its feast day on August 15th. Papal colors are scarlet and gold, the umbrella is kept half open, if the pope comes it becomes fully open. A tintinnabula (bell) is also given. Both are meant to be used in procession.

southeast Ohio road trip

mosaic above front entrance St. John the Evangelist Logan Ohio

glazed brick fired in Logan, in front of St. John's (1897)

2007 Mural of Mingo leader Logan the Orator 1780†, on side of bank next to park on the chief intersection. Quotation is covered up. Only the words “not one” are visible. 

Logan's Lament delivered near Circleville

“I appeal to any white man to say, if ever he entered Logan's cabin hungry, and he gave him not meat; if ever he came cold and naked, and he clothed him not. During the course of the last long and bloody war, Logan remained idle in his cabin, an advocate for peace. Such was my love for the whites, that my countrymen pointed as they passed, and said, Logan is the friend of the white men. I have even thought to live with you but for the injuries of one man. Col. Cresap, the last spring, in cold blood, and unprovoked, murdered all the relations of Logan, not sparing even my women and children. There runs not a drop of my blood in the veins of any living creature. This has called on me for revenge. I have sought it: I have killed many: I have fully glutted my vengeance. For my country, I rejoice at the beams of peace. But do not harbor a thought that mine is the joy of fear. Logan never felt fear. He will not turn on his heel to save his life. Who is there to mourn for Logan? Not one.”

Southeast Ohio mined coal, and clay. The towns produced glass, ceramics, pipe, and brick. The coal mine owners were harsh, and greedy bastards. The formation of unions were necessary, and were put down by all means available. I remember reading, Nelsonville was Local #1 of the United Mine Workers (i do not have the citation here). Most of the coaling was done after the War for the Union (1861-5), and ended after World War II.

Public Square of Nelsonville Ohio has this two-sided marker concerning the Hocking Valley Coal Strike of 1884-5. There has been periods of time, in which the recounting of such history was not approved. We still have powerful forces that want such recollections not to be public knowledge.

Karma did a circuit around this fountain, and was miffed there was no opening. She enjoys a dip in such pools. It was in the mid-80s at the time.

On a hill above, Betty's Cross [click] stands above town, and yes Nelsonville is a town again (5,000).

Piggly Wiggly is the best name in the grocery business. Always thought, they were a southern chain. Ohio has five stores, and the most northerly one is in The Plains. The store had been a Big Bear, and then a Foodland. Inside The Plain's store is the banner infra.

Athens High is in The Plains. The football stadium is now named after Joe Burrow, Class of 2015. In 2019, he was awarded the Heisman Trophy for being the best college football player. The vote was a rout, he had won by the greatest margin in its history. More importantly, is what he said,

“Coming from southeast Ohio, it’s a very, very impoverished area. The poverty rate is almost two times the national average. There are so many people there that don’t have a lot, and I’m up here for all those kids in Athens and Athens County that go home to not a lot of food on the table, hungry after school. You guys can be up here, too.”

In a few days, a few hundred thousands of dollars came to charities in Athens County, including the county food bank. The county school board voted to name the stadium after him.

This sundial is on the spot of the first building of Ohio University Athens. It sees very little sun, so it is largely inoperative. Many thousands of people have walked by it, and did not notice.

The Ohio Coal Miner. Alan Cottrill. 2012. Byesville.

Cassius is posing in front of the statue. The miner has the tools of his trade with him. Historical details alluding to the history are on the statue:  half of a fore finger is missing, in a jacket pocket there is a medallion numbered 382, for the number of miners dying while working in Guernsey County. There is a coal miners' museum to the left, and a train exhibit to the right.

signs on a garage, Byesville

Nelsonville O.

Eric Wagner taught urban sociology at Ohio University in Athens. OU was chartered by the US government before Washington's presidency. The first settlements after Independence were in southeastern Ohio. If one were to divide the state into five regions, the least populated now is the southeast. We are in Appalachia. The least populated Ohio counties border, or are near Athens. The census, and all government purposes, uses five thousand as the threshold of being a town (city). Each Ohio county has a county seat, and courthouse; some are in villages. Athens County has Athens as the county seat. Athens has been a town since 1910. Professor Wagner pointed out Nelsonville teeters on being a town. It wants to be a town, for government funding purposes. Nelsonville was a town from 1900 to 1940, and then again in 2000 and 2010. But, in 2020 Trump's people sabotaged the Department of Commerce, which conducts the census. They listed 4,612; the census designated place had another count done, and it was 5,373.

So Athens County has two towns again. Athens exists as a governmental, educational, and cultural center. The Hocking River flows through the county to the Ohio River, and this was connected to the canal system. The water route was the way for commerce before the railroads, and the railroads were near the canal ways. This part of the state has coal and clay. Business connected the coal mines with the railroads. Nelsonville was a coal town. I can not find the citation, but i remember United Mine Workers Local #1 as being in Nelsonville. There were brick kilns in Nelsonville, and Logan in Hocking County made clay pipe, other places also made bricks, and ceramics.

Hocking Valley Railway was built after the War of the Southern Insurrection was ended. In addition to passenger service to Columbus, it hauled coal, and clay products north to Toledo. The C&O absorbed the line in 1930. At the end of 1949 passenger service stopped, and the coal runs became fewer, and fewer. The Hocking Valley Scenic Railway began in 1972, and continues for tour outings.

Betty's Cross (with man, and hound on the right side) since 1973

Before Route 33 was rerouted, everyone going through Nelsonville could see Betty's Cross. At night, lights would shine off the metal.  Route 33 went through Athens to South Bend; but Columbus, Lancaster, and Logan are more local.

Elizabeth Anita “Betty” Smith was born in Nelsonville, and left after high school. She married Walter L. “Bud” Schwartz.  She died in 1972, the next year he built the cross on the highest spot in Nelsonville. In 1981 a wind storm came, and a new cross was built in 1983. The first cross was was 73½', the second is 65'. It is the world's largest metal cross, and the world's largest dedicated to a woman.

The logo of Rocky Brands is painted on the old Brooks Shoe factory. Across from it is the company's headquarters, and a statue of a ram. For some time the shoe company, started in 1932, was the lading employer in town. The company has changed names, bought other companies, but the shoes and boots are made elsewhere.

Athens Ohio foto safari

Blue Eagle Music Company  

There is much to foto in Athens.

Court Street Athens Ohio bottoms out at the Armory. The Armory no longer has munitions (i guess),  but once the secessionists did make a couple of armed sojourns in southern Ohio. We did have insurrectionists attack the national capital last year.

Yesterday, somewhere south of Canton, the trees were leafing out. On a very cloudy, and somewhat rainy day in Ohio, the northern part was not green as the rest of the state. This is Jeff Hill, to the right is Jefferson Hall.

Peace mural, around Athens there is a lot of art on the outside of buildings.

Keith Wilde. Release. 2018. Stimson Avenue.

On Stimson Avenue beginning in 1890 and on to 1917, millions of paving bricks were made by the Athens Brick Company, across the street where post office 45701 is now. This is a 2019 mural by Keith Wilde.

Some of the bricks leading between Ellis Hall and Alden Library from University Terrace and Park Place.

Dogwoods have opened their white bracts. Biology tells us, those white or pink leaves are not flowers, the petals (specialised leaves) are at the intersection, and center of the bracts. White and green are the school colors. Between Ellis Hall, Cutler Hall, and Galbreath Chapel you can see the pink colored.

A lantern at the entrance of Scott Quad, facing the back of Gordy Hall. Rumour suggests Scott Quad may be soon gone.

Below Scott, and over Clippinger Lab, a woodchuck looks out.

Christ Enthroned. Kelly Latimore.

Church of the Good Shepherd Episcopal's main worship space is very low church, but elegant. Recently they have two icons by Latimore, who had lived in nearby religious community.

This Lady Justice has not always been gilded (perhaps 2004 or thereafter), and she is not blind, but she does have a lightning rod up her back. She has sat high on one side of Athens County Courthouse, since 1890.

Oscar recycles, who knew?

Great neon sign, really stinky beer. Have not had one since the January blizzard of 1978. For years, when someone opened one across the room, i could smell it unseen.

Route 33 to Athens

Well, Athens is the only bastion of democracy for many miles around.  I was displeased when my nephew said it was "in the middle of nowhere".  For many people Athens, and Ohio University are synonymous.

It may be 37 years since i was on the stretch between Columbus and Athens on route 33. It has changed. It is high speed four lane all the way. Lancaster, Logan, Nelsonville are invisible.

It is not easy to find free parking, this cardinal was resting on a very computerised meter. NASA had less technology to send men to the moon.

The paw print was the University's logo for years. It is not permitted since the attack cat was commissioned, and phased in from 1996 to 2002. People preferred the paw, but the university payed outsiders for something new. All approved clothing, all university athletic promotion can only have the attack cat. Paw print is prohibited, a private building has a few prints painted anyway.

The dogwoods here are still with their white bracts, and the green leaves have not yet come. In Athens the bracts (and wee flowers) are gone on nearly every tree, and they are fully green leafed. Before, some people followed the northward bloom of the dogwood. The interest began to pique when they bloomed in North Carolina, and then through the Virginias.They are still in bloom in Northern Ohio.

There still are steps on Jeff(erson) Hill. A lot of bricks have been replaced, or covered over. Jeff Hill, the last time i was in town, still had bricks, but bollards were on top and bottom. Athens had/has a lot of old brick with the name of the brickyards it came from. There is a lot of clay in the area. 

Students used to take trays from the cafeteria, to use as sleds in the very few days there was snow. When it was icy, it was humourous, to watch at a distance, cars try to go up. Some would fail, and lose control.

Chris Stain. “Without Labor, Nothing Prospers”. 2015. 

This mural, on Court Street (the main drag uptown), was dedicated for Workers' Memorial Day (April 28) 2018. United Mine Workers Local 1 was in nearby Nelsonville.

   Memorial Auditorium has several plaques from illustrious speakers that visited campus.

I am guessing that last summer, there was some political notice about town concerning the extra-judicial killing of black people. Here are the two sides of a sign planted in 2020.

Breonna Taylor was killed by Louisville Kentucky police March 13. 2020. This storefront window reminds us.

There is a Civil War Monument at the entrance to the College Green since 1893. One of several plaques reads, "Dulce et decorum est pro patria mori (Sweet and proper to die for the fatherland)". It was a good place to sit and eat, and smoke.

Guitar man singing on the town's establishment church. Though this area of Ohio was heavily Methodist, the first presidents at Ohio University were Presbyterian ministers.

There used to be Varsity Cinema directly across the Athena, years ago. Covid 19 has been bad for the picture show.

On old 33, Richland Avenue, with the Convocation Center under the clouds.The building was considered a white elephant.